Wave Surface And Bottom Boundary Layers In The Nearshore

Download or read book Wave Surface and Bottom Boundary Layers in the Nearshore written by and published by . This book was released on 1998 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This grant consisted of two components, development of new instruments followed by three field investigations of the dynamics of the wave surface and bottom boundary layers in shallow nearshore waters. Standard (daytime) and intensified (night-time) video systems were developed and tested in the field experiments, and were used to measure the temporal and spatial variability in wave breaking occurrences on both land atop towers and at sea aboard ships. Video data obtained coincident with in situ pressure, bi-directional velocity, turbulence, and void fraction were used to calibrate new models for the transformation of wave energy across the surf zone, the forcing of nearshore circulation patterns, and characteristics of breaking waves including turbulence and bubble injection into the water column. Methods for measuring wave breaking on the continental shelf from shipboard video observations were developed in a series of cruises, and used to quantify whitecapping events in relation to sea and swell in the vicinity of a directional waverider buoy.